San Antonio Paints has Accessories & Tools that stand apart from competitors’ products. We are proud to offer over 1000 high quality products under one roof to complete your project. Our friendly staff can guide you in choosing a product that is suitable for your particular needs.
FAQ
- What area are you working with interior, exterior, doors, cabinets, walls?
- Sheen option
- Color option
- Water-based paint, also known as latex, is the most common type of paint for home use. This fast-drying paint cleans up with soap and water, is environmentally responsible with fewer VOCs (volatile organic compounds), and has excellent performance. Latex paint is also known for its flexibility to withstand movement and its ability to prevent mildew and moisture from getting into your home.
- Oil based paints or alkyds, these paints are most commonly reserved for high-moisture areas such as bathrooms and kitchens and those subject to heavy wear or prone to impact including trim, floors, and sometimes cabinets. This high-gloss paint also has a longer drying time than latex paint, so you’re less likely to see brush strokes.
Depends on experience, sq foot, prep and clean up.
- The general rule is that you should use two coats of paint. However, this rule changes based on the color, quality of the paint you use, whether you used primer, and the type of surface you’re painting.
- On a new wall, you’ll want to follow the rule and apply two coats of paint after primer. Follow the same standard for drywall.If you’re repainting a wall, you’ll only need one coat if you’re using the same color and it’s a quality paint.
- For ceilings you’ll only need one coat of paint after a primer.
- If you’re covering dark over light or vice versa, you’ll usually only need at least two coats of paint. Do a sample spot to see if you need to do three coats or just one coat of primer and two coats of paint.
- If it’s a recommendation to use two coats of paint on an interior surface, then it’s a downright commandment to apply at least two coats of paint on your exterior. You can’t cut corners since your exterior will be exposed to multiple elements like the sun, snow, rain, birds, and insects.
- Lower quality paints don’t cover as well as higher quality paints. This can cause you to spend all day adding coats and waiting for them to dry.
- Higher quality paints have better pigments and resins. They also have fewer solvents like water meaning the paint will be thicker.
- Benefits of using multiple coats of paint:
- Your Paint Will Look Nicer: Skimping on layers of paint or using a low-quality paint can cause your paint to peel sooner, leave an uneven finish, and allow the old coat to pollute the new finish. That wouldn’t look nice, would it?
- Your Paint Will Last Longer: Two coats of paint will be far more durable than one. A more durable coat of paint will last longer and cost you less money in the long run.
- Longer Warranty: If you apply a second coat of paint, you can get a longer warranty.
- Samples: Great for ensuring that you’re getting the best choice of color
- Masking Film: great for covering windows, doors, cabinets and furniture.
- Drop Cloth: great for keeping surfaces paint free, protects carpet, title and any floor surfaces from getting paint and dirt on them.
- Blue painters’ tape: great for getting those sharp edges crispy clean.
- Paint sprayer: can make an interior job a lot easier but not recommend just an option.
- Good quality brush
- Tips on how much paint you will need for the job.
- Measure from floor to ceiling.
- Measure the length of each wall. Add all length figures together to obtain the total horizontal distance, or perimeter.
- Omit if you do not plan to paint your ceiling.
- Sloping walls form a triangular wall space. To calculate a triangle’s square footage, multiply the length of the wall at the base of the triangle by its height and divide by 2.
- To find the amount of paint you need per wall, use this simple formula:
- W x H = AREA in square feet
360 = approximate square footage covered by one gallon of paint
AREA / 360 = # of gallons needed to paint your project
- If you want the most professional-looking results possible from a DIY paint job, you need to start not only with high-quality paint, but also with high-quality paint brushes. A good brush can make the difference between a smooth, even coat of paint and a bristle-marked, blotchy finish.
- How to choose a paint brush:
- The first thing to consider when choosing a paint brush is the product, you’re going to be using it with. Oil-based paints and varnishes are best applied with a brush that has natural bristles.
- Synthetic brushes are better suited for latex and acrylic paints and water-based finishes. If you’re not exactly sure what type of paint you’re going to be using, go with a nylon/poly blend. These all-purpose brushes should have you covered for a wide range of paint types. Foam brushes are another potential option. They typically leave a nice smooth finish but are harder to clean and aren’t as durable as bristles. Foam brushes are usually discarded after use.
- The shape of the brush is also another factor to keep in mind. Flat angled brushes are designed for use on large, flat surfaces, but aren’t great for following lines or edges. Angled brushes, on the other hand, while not very practical for large surfaces, are perfect for precision tasks like cutting-in edges, accessing corners, painting trim, or really any detail work.
- If you’re wondering whether or not you can apply oil-based paint over latex, it really isn’t a smart decision, but it is possible. The reason professionals advise against doing this is because latex paint is flexible in nature, and as a result, oil-based paints won’t properly adhere to them.
- To properly paint over latex there’s a few steps that are required.
- First Sand the surface, mask the surrounding area then apply latex primer paint
- Typically paint takes around one hour to eight hours to dry. However, if you are planning to put on a second or third coat, it’s recommended you wait for a short while after the first coat is completely dry.
- The manufacturer’s directions will guide you on the dry times; if unsure, check them to make sure you are waiting long enough.
- Unlike drying, curing can take days and sometimes weeks to be fully set and ready for the photos. The paint needs to hit its maximum hardness, and all solvents need to evaporate for curing to occur.
- The paint sheen, or finish, affects how the color appears. That depends on whether it absorbs light or reflects it. For paint to hold up well over time it has to be durable enough for the surface and the situation. In other words the sheen is how shiny the paint is. Ranging from a high gloss which is very shiny to a flat which has no shine at all. In between are eggshell, satin, and semi-gloss, each with its own practical and decorative job to do.
- Flat is great for: Ceilings and low traffic areas.
- Eggshell is great for: Bedrooms, family rooms, hallways, and Dining room.
- Satin sheen is great for high traffic areas: Kitchens, laundry rooms, bathrooms, hallways, and shutters.
- Semi-gloss is great for durability: kids’ room, doors and windows, cabinets, high traffic areas and furniture.
- Primer is a base coat used to help treat a surface before applying a topcoat. Accordingly, primer is formulated to ensure maximum adhesion. Better paint adhesion means your paint job lasts longer.
- Primer can reduce the number of painting coats needed for proper color coverage. It also strengthens the bond between the surface and topcoat, extending the life of your paint job.
- You don’t need to use primer on previously painted surfaces that are in good condition. This goes for both interior and exterior surfaces that are not peeling or chipping.
- Most modern quality exterior and interior paints are self-priming. This means they are formulated to adhere to most previously painted surfaces without the need for a prime coat.
If you do not follow the suggested recoat times, it’s possible to weaken the bond between the paint and the surface- meaning the paint can crack, peel or even blister. Therefore the 4-hour time frame is vital for latex paints and 24 hours between coats for oil-based paints. If the paint is still tacky (slightly wet), you will end up with partially dried paint clumps in your second coat.
- Yes, at San Antonio paints we offer half pint samples that come in eggshell finish.
- We also offer samples in our outside stain “arbor coat”
- The same principle applies for water-based paints – you want to get all the paint off. To do that, the trick is likely hiding in your laundry room!
- Pour a half cup of fabric softener into two gallons of warm water. Let the brush soak in the softener for several minutes until the paint coagulates and begins separating from the bristles.
- Use a paint brush comb and dislodge any paint from the base of the bristles. When the brush is thoroughly dry, clean it with a cloth or paper towel. There’s no need to rinse. Now, the next time you’re ready to paint, your brush will be clean and supple.
- For paint to adhere well, it must be applied to a surface that is clean, dry and not flaking or peeling. Depending on the condition of existing siding and trim, this often means considerable scraping and sanding before you can paint.
- The idea isn’t to remove all of the paint – just to remove loose paint and smooth the surface. Use a putty knife and wood filler to fill cracks and holes. Let the filler dry, and then sand these areas again. Brush off all of the dust, caulk the joints and allow the caulk to dry before applying primer.
Don’t paint on hot days, in the rain or during windy weather. Ideal temperatures for painting are between 50 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit. Hot weather causes the paint to dry too quickly, as does direct sun. When possible, wait for the shade. Temperatures below 50 degrees may prevent the paint from adhering to the surface properly. Dampness or dew can bubble surfaces.
Yes. we offer more than 3,500 beautiful colors and many custom color-match options as well.
Most previously painted, undamaged, and untainted walls do not require priming, especially when using a high-quality interior paint. Some special instances, however, require a primer:
Adhesion (non-porous or glossy surface)
Bonding primers increase adhesion over an existing glossy finish or a non-porous substrate like paneling.
Hide (color change)
Primer (tinted or white) obscures or hides a dark existing color when painting over with a light color or vice versa. Benjamin Moore premium paints (Ben® Interior, Regal® Select Interior, Aura® Interior) deliver a self-priming level of hide that can help achieve most color changes in two coats with no primer.
Seal (stain blocking)
Stain-blocking primers suppress stains from smoke, tannins or water. Without a primer, those stains can come through even after painting. Consider priming just the stains (spot-priming) instead of the entire wall.
Sheen (enamel holdout)
Alkyd primer, such as Insl-X® Prime Lock Plus, seals varnish or residual adhesive from removed wallpaper for better sheen or enamel holdout.
Uniformity (porous surfaces, new drywall)
Primer fills and evens out porous surfaces like new drywall. New drywall should always be primed, because it’s very porous and therefore can absorb moisture, odors, oils or other stains.
- Deciding which Benjamin Moore paint is best depends on your needs as a customer as well as the project. That said, here are three of the best Benjamin Moore interior paints.
- Aura® Interior paint is Benjamin Moore’s ultra-premium paint. Aura Interior offers unparalleled color depth and richness. Aura’s Color Lock® technology seamlessly locks pigments into the paint’s film, ensuring long-lasting color. Not surprisingly, Aura® Interior is the preferred paint of interior designers.
- Regal® Select Interior is a time-tested premium interior paint that you can trust to deliver outstanding quality and durability for results that last.
- Ben® Interior paint elevates your confidence with its easier application, great touch-up qualities, and longer open time, resulting in flawless results and a more effortless painting experience.
- Deciding which Benjamin Moore paint is best depends on your needs as a customer as well as the application. Here are five Benjamin Moore exterior paints to consider
- Aura® Exterior paint with it’s exclusive Color Lock® technology, Aura® Exterior paint provides the ultimate performance for rich, full color and unprecedented durability.
- Regal® Select Exterior paint resists fading, cracking, and peeling and provides a mildew-resistant coating, even in humid conditions.
- Regal® Select High Build is a thick, high-build, 100% acrylic formula that bridges small cracks and voids in fewer coats.
- Element Guard® offers exceptional permeability to withstand wind-driven rain, excessive humidity, and other harsh weather conditions on many surfaces, including vinyl siding.
- Arborcoat® Exterior stain enhances the natural beauty of exterior wood surfaces with a wide variety of opacities and colors. Arborcoat® stain provides superior protection against mildew, UV damage, and other harsh weather conditions.
- Benjamin Moore offers paint in several formulas, including:
- Latex or acrylic—water-based paint
- Alkyd—oil-based paint
- Specialty—waterborne alkyd (includes alkyd properties with soap and water cleanup)
Benjamin – Moore
Interior
Top of the line
AURA – matte, satin, eggshell, semi-gloss
AURA BATH & SPA – matte
REGAL – flat, matte, eggshell, satin pearl, pearl, semi-gloss
BEN – Matte, eggshell, satin pearl, semi-gloss
Door trim and cabinets
ADVANCE – matte, satin, semi-gloss, high gloss
CABINET COATE – satin, semi-gloss
DOOR TRIM & CABINET – satin, semi-gloss
Contractor line
ULTRA SPEC – flat, eggshell, satin pearl, semi-gloss
SUPERHIDE ZERO – flat, eggshell, semi-gloss
Exterior
Top of the line
AURA EXT. – satin, low luster, semi-gloss
REGAL EXT. – low luster, soft gloss
(BEN) ELEMENT GUARD – flat, low luster, soft gloss
Contractor line
ULTRASPEC EXT. – flat, satin, gloss
ULTRASPEC MASONRY – FLAT, LOW LUSTER
ULTRASPEC DTM – semi-gloss, gloss
Hospitality & Industrial
SCUFF X – matte, eggshell, satin, semi-gloss
COMMAND – satin, gloss
Sundries & Their Uses
Tape/Film: There are different sizes and colors of tape available for what you are trying to do.
Yellow masking tape is a general use for paper and plastic film with a stronger adhesive than painters’ tape.
Blue painters’ tape is generally used for straight line edging and cutting in corners. Although you can also do the same with masking tape, painters’ tape has a water repellent barrier to keep paint from bleeding into the protected areas.
Plastic film and Masking paper are both used to cover and protect adjacent areas and spaces not meant for the paint being applied.
Spackling paste/Wood fillers: These are products used to cover or fill holes, blemishes, and any imperfections to smooth out.
Taping Knives/Spatulas/Scrapers: These are tools used to apply any of the pastes and putties and joint compounds.
Sanding Paper/Sanding Sponges: After applying the paste or fillers you will need to sand to a smooth finish. Depending on the grade of the finish you will need to use the grit of the paper.
Caulking/Caulk Gun: The caulk is used to seal gapped edges from trim to walls. The caulk gun will help to apply the caulk which usually comes in a 12 oz. tube.
Joint/Mesh Tape: The paper tape(joint) is mainly used to cover seams from budding two drywall sheets together. While mesh tape is used for patching holes.
Joint compound /Fast Set mud: These are used as the adhesives that hold the paper tape and mesh tape previously mentioned. Using a puddy or taping knife, smoothing out the mud and sanding to the desired finish.
Respirators /Particle Masks: These are crucial in keeping dust or vapors from being inhaled while sanding and or spraying. (Safety First Always)
Coveralls/Spray Hoods/Shoe Covers: Are recommended to avoid getting any debris on yourself.
Gloves: If you have an allergy reaction to any type of chemicals, you might want to wear hand protection as well to keep harmful chemicals if any off of your skin.
Floor Protection: Depending on the degree of protection you need, there are a couple of grades of paper you can use. Builders paper is a 3’ to 4’ ft roll of construction paper usually around 300’ to 400’. Builder Board is a thicker, more durable type of roll. The most common size of 4’x 100’, is for maximum protection to your floors.
Furniture Cover/Floor Runner: There is also a variety of furniture protection available. There is a canvas type of tarp or floor runners with or without a rubber backing. The rubber backing is mainly used so that fluids spilled do not penetrate the cover. It is also used as a non-slip for safety reasons. Painters’ plastic can also double as furniture and floor protection and to avoid overspray. Plastic can come in different mils (thickness) and sizes.
Paint Shields: These are handheld straight edge protectors to keep paint within a particular area with a straight edge usually used in spraying.
Paint Strainers: Eliminates impurities in new and old paint and prepares it for paint sprayers.
General use Buckets: Buckets come in all sizes and with or without measuring fill lines.
Pole Sanders/Blocks: Tools that help improve sanding by stress and pressure on your hands and arms.
Brushes/Roller Covers: There are several types of brushes for different types of paint (water based or oil based). Ergonomics (thick or slim handle or long and short). Types of edge for the project (straight or angled bristle). Size for coverage to carry minimal or maximum product to surface being painted (1” to 4”). Roller covers are typically the same. You will also see nap sizes for different surfaces (smooth to textured finishes).
Paint Thinner: Mineral Spirits used to thin oil based paints.
Lacquer Thinner: Thins Lacquer.
Acetone: HD Cleaner and Degreaser. Also thins resins (Varnishes & Adhesives)
Japan Drier: Speeds up oil-based paints, varnishes & epoxies